Ever been in a sail plane? As the variometer goes from "di
.. di .. di" to
"diiiiiiiiiiiiiii", you know that your going up at over
10 metres per
second. It's a pumping adrenalin rush!
What made me think of this of was my first sight of Sani Pass.
We had just
travelled through another slightly higher pass and the view of
monster jets
of cloud shooting up the face of the mountain was truly marvellous.
A lot
more than 10 metres per second! Much more.
Ours however was not to ride the air currents but the granite
face of the
mountain. The prospect of descending into the freezing mist, clouds
and
rain was every bit as much of an adrenalin high. In thirty five
years
riding a motorcycle there can be little doubt that this was one
of the most
exciting and dangerous moments.
Steep, wet, frozen, mud, strewn with large rocks, crossed by
gullies.
Perhaps it was as well that we could not see the precipice just
a meter
away. The mist was so dense that each of three motorcycles travelled
in its
own little cocoon. Meeting up sometimes at a corner, to check
that the
others were OK.
As if this were not a sufficient challenge, there was a deadline!
At the
bottom of the 8km pass, the South African border post was waiting
for us.
It would close at 4pm. The friendly bar keeper at Sani Top, reckoned
half
an hour should be enough. It was, but only just.
I cannot explain why the thought did not occur to me, to put
on water-proof
leggings. Probably because it wasn't really raining. Just all
this mist.
Reaching the bottom my (only) pair of jeans were soaked. (The
new Cordura
jacket though, worked just fine.) We arrived at the border post
on the
stroke of four.
A further ten or so km's to the Sani Hotel was an uncomfortable
ride. By
now we were cold and wet. Sitting beside a great log fire an hour
later the
brief memory of this did not diminish the reflections on what
had been an
astounding day's ride across the Roof of Africa.
At the highest point 3236 metres above sea level. (Must be
more than 10,000
feet.) The G/S's engine definitely struggled to breath and a loss
of power
was markedly evident. But hardly surprising.
The first climb to Moteng pass had been a really brilliant
ride. Sweeping
curves strung together one after the other. Only close to the
top did we
slow, out of concern for ice that could be seen thick on the side
of
the road. A brief pause to consume a little "anti-freeze",
and we were on
our way to Oxbow Lodge and the first beer. All had a chuckle when
the
camera was given to one of the Basotho girls in the bar. She thought
that
she would be photographed. Didn't understand that we wanted to
be in the
picture.
The Road to Letseng is good and afforded a chance to spot half
a dozen or
so, Bearded Vultures. Otherwise a very rare bird. And, uncommon
in such
numbers.
Letseng to Mokhotlong is full of pot holes. These things are
deep. You
don't want to hit too many of them. The ride slowed considerably
and became
a game of snaking between these craters. This too was fun for
a while.
Across the Roof of Africa, never dropping below much less than
2500 metres.
Reaching Mokhotlong we turned on to a dirt road, easier to
ride than the
previous, which had by now lost the fun element. Suddenly we were
passed
by two dirt bikes, travelling in the opposite direction at great
speed.
Looked like they knew what they were doing. Along this stretch
we stopped
to let out the beer and top up the "anti-freeze". And
this pretty much
brings us to the point at which I began. With the sight of those
clouds.
We returned home the following day, at the foot of these same
mountains.
Travelling tar roads through some beautiful country side. And
some amazing,
fast, bike riding roads. Not quite the same excitement as the
previous day
but great stuff none-the-less.
Two days, 850 km's, and my 22 year old R80G/S never missed a beat!
If you're interested in a guided trip across the Roof of Africa,
mail me.
Jim Lundberg
jim@junex.co.za