a motorcycle adventure

december, 2009

In the slack days between Christmas and New Year I find myself on a bike, riding the African boulevards on the way to Rhodes, to visit one of Jim’s (and mine) good and old friend. I knew it would be a long trip, much different to previous rides to Clarens.   This adventure would be about 1000km.  Excited and all dressed in my best leathers I found the road long , the country side hot, green and beautiful. Stopping every hour and a half, my backside was still very sore but the beautiful views seemed to make the pain worth while.

Jim and I passed other bikes on the road, with which soon we met up, 20 minutes later in Aliwal North.   At a roadside restaurant, I quickly realised that bikers are no strangers to each other, but friends who share a love for their machines and for the road.  We all chatted and enquired where from and where to? 
You would be surprised to know that bikers are quite pleasant people.


The last stretch to
Rhodes is 60 km on dirt, and when riding a road-bike this is a hard experience.  It took an hour and a half of long and windy roads.  There was the smell of a bushy plant in the air that reminded me very much of an Easter camping trip when I was much younger, and of course, of Rhodes itself.  This familiar scent was of khaki-bos.

Eventually we arrived in
Rhodes and at Walkerbouts.   Not much has changed I gathered.  We walked into the Pub at the Centre of the Universe, to find our wonderful and weird friend Dave. Neither had he changed a lot.  For me, he will always make the perfect Father Christmas with his long white beard, and perfectly round stomach.  He later told us that he had trimmed his beard and put red bows in it for Christmas.  How sweet!

A beer was much needed at this time, and as Dave slouched back into his bar chair, Jim and I preferred to stand.   We soon met Dave’s new staff and had the privilege to select a room for our two-night stay. We chose the newly refurbished rondavel, which was cool inside.  A joy to get out of the heat.

Dave’s famous pizza for dinner and a good night’s sleep.  Next morning, a cup of green tea and a trip in Dave’s bakie along a very wobbly road up to the site of a new vulture restaurant, soon to be built.  Also, a look at the site for a botanical garden.   Then at Rhodes proposed new air-strip,  and finally a tour of the vegetable garden, green and luscious.  Dave told a story of three pigs.  One black one and one pink one and one fat one in the bar. HAHAHAHAHA!

Jim, Dave and I shared very good bogoms and a wonderful ploughman’s lunch followed by a long afternoon nap.  I can’t think of a more relaxing and peaceful place in the world (apart from Arniston).

Later, at the bar, a very odd mixture of people were to be found.  More and more joined the party. Some were locals and others visitors.  Many people were there for fly fishing or camping.  I noticed that even Dave was introduced to new patrons.  He called them all Fanie regardless of their name. A late but wonderful dinner was worth waiting for.  One of my favourites.  Grilled prawns prepared by Dave himself!
 
Early to rise, I find Susan most distressed that all of the kitchen aprons have disappeared.  She seems a bit peed-off to me.  A good breakfast and sad goodbyes at leaving Rhodes behind us.  A ride through the mountains and over the Bell river, beautiful and clear. As before, we stop every hour-and-a-half to refuel.  I notice street vendors with huge displays of fireworks. It is New-Year’s Eve!

Last stop before home, Jim and I are out of the saddle in Wepener at the “Ford Lazer” to rest our bums and for a beer.  Here we find four proper Dutchmen sitting at the bar at
noon on a Wednesday.  All look like Boere, with short khaki pants and a big khaki shirt to cover their large stomachs, with veld-skoone and a comb in the sock.

At 160 km/h we speed past two traffic cops at the side of the road.  Nonchalant and brave, we are almost home.